Rome Fiumicino Airport (FCO) Flights & Flight Status

Rome has two international airports, but Fiumicino is the biggest and best. Clean and well laid out, beautiful terminals and first-rate amenities (the shopping!), its intimidating size is tempered by its Italian flare. It’s an exercise in how to do things right at scale.

And it is huge. Italy’s busiest airport, Fiumicino handles around 40 million passengers a year and that number is trending upwards. Currently, 136 airlines fly to 73 countries and 233 destinations, domestic and international. It’s certainly doing something right, as it’s been voted Europe’s best airport with more than 40 million travellers for six years running by the Airports Council International.

Airport layout

Fiumicino Airport is in a state of flux, which has led to some slightly strange naming. Technically, it has four terminals, though they’re confusingly called Terminals 1, 2, 3 and 5. Terminal 4 is yet to be built. To add to that confusion, only Terminal 1 and Terminal 3 are currently functioning.

Terminal 2 was demolished to make way for the expansion of Terminal 1. Terminal 5, which was long the main entry and exit point for US flights, has also long been closed for renovations, which seem to have no end in sight. After all this, we actually end up with a far simpler layout: two terminals next to each other.

This makes transfers between them particularly easy, as they’re just a five-minute walk apart. In my experience, the walk is quicker than the free shuttle bus once you factor in waiting times.

Travelling to and from Rome and beyond

Fiumicino’s footprint renders it too big to live within Rome’s walls. It sits around 20 miles from the centre near the small town that gave it its name. It’s a spectacular setting hugging the coastline of the Tyrrhenian Sea so I highly recommend booking a window seat on your flights in and out.

Transport in and out is well catered to, with a variety of options. Taxis are one, although I’ve always found them hit and miss. The journey to central Rome takes around an hour if the traffic is good and there are – officially – fixed fees for airport commutes.

In my experience, taxi drivers are more interested in setting their own fees or using the meter, which can be extortionate. Check what the fixed fee is in advance and only accept a ride once you’ve agreed to it with the driver. If you’re coming from Rome and need to ask, it’s pronounced “fyoo-muh-chee-now”.

Direct and regional train services

Heading into Rome central, by far the best option is the Leonardo Express train. Hop on at the airport railway station close to both terminals and it will see you to Roma Termini main station in 32 minutes. Trains depart every 15 minutes from around 06:00 to 23.30 pm daily.

For destinations outside the center, the FL1 regional line trains may be more suitable. Bypassing the Termini station, they instead traverse popular districts like Trastevere, Ostiense, Tuscolana and Tiburtina. They also depart every 15 minutes from the airport station on weekdays, and every 30 minutes on weekends. Journeys typically cost about half as much as the Leonardo Express but are much slower.

Your third rail option takes you beyond Rome aboard a Frecciarossa ‘red arrow’ train. High speed and comfortable, they connect directly to some of Italy’s most tantalising cities – Naples, Florence, Bologna, Padua and Venice. They run regularly but not often, so check travel times in advance.

If you’re travelling to Fiumicino on a Trenitalia train and are flying with ITA Airways, you may be able to take advantage of their new FCO Connect partnership. Officially operating “on an experimental basis” (which admittedly doesn’t fill one with confidence), you can drop your baggage directly at the airport station and collect them at your end destination. The bag drop counter is open 6 am to midday and is only available if you’ve already checked in online. Good luck!

Bus

There are lots of bus lines ploughing the commute between Fiumicino and a range of Rome destinations. Depending on how deep you’re going into the city, travel times are around an hour. Buses are regular and cheap but can also be cramped and sweaty. You’re far better off taking a train.

Driving and parking

The airport is far away enough from Rome that access by car is easy. Actually, it’s lovely as it gives you the chance to explore the nearby coastal towns like ancient, atmospheric Ardea. There’s plenty of parking – short stay is within walking distance of the terminals but long stay lots are a shuttle ride away.

Alongside the usual main car rental companies there’s a wide range of local companies offering all sorts of deals for those brave enough to try them. Experience in Italy has taught me to avoid such companies, which are fond of finding ways to add costs post-rental, and stick to what you know. My go-to is Drivalia.

Check in, bag drop and security

If you have to drop bags or check in at the airport, expect queues. Although I’ve never had to wait more than 30 minutes, the sheer volume of passengers passing through can cause bottlenecks. If you can’t travel with carry-on bags only, give yourself an hour as you would with any major airport, just to be sure.

Security has taken a leap forward at both terminals in recent years with the installation of smart scanners. With passengers now able to leave electronics and liquids (up to 100 ml) in their bags, queues are shorter and swifter. If traveling to Non-Schengen countries, you’ll also have to go through passport control. This is often closer to the terminal gates, after the shopping and eating areas. So put down the pizza and remember to give yourself time to get through them before your flight.

Connections and transfers

If you’re catching a connecting flight within Schengen countries you won’t need to go through security. If you’re connecting via a Non-Schengen country, you’ll have to go through immigration and security and should plan an hour for that into your transfer time. Connecting flights are well signposted, with a noticeboard showing details, times and gates in the connections area just after you deboard.

Using Terminal 1

The smaller of the two terminals is also my favourite for its amenities and layout. Serving domestic and Schengen countries, it’s the home of ITA Airways, Italy’s national flag carrier. The biggest carrier at the terminal, it runs around 75 routes. Elsewhere, departure boards teem with familiar low-cost carrier names ferrying people to all manner of destinations. T1 is home to Boarding Area A and all gate numbers start with A.

One of the great boons of the budget airline revolution is the sheer variety of routes they’ve opened up, inviting people to explore places they’d likely never have considered before. Fiumicino does exactly this, acting as a central hub for Mediterranean tourism. The fact it’s home to one of the biggest Aelia duty-free zones in the world is testament to its popularity.

Shopping is reasonably well catered to with a smattering of Italian fashion brands and gift stores. But the star in T1’s crown is the Eataly food court on the second floor plaza. As a short haul hub, most passengers don’t have long waits or transfers so time for a sitdown meal can be limited. Eataly brings Italian quality to fast food.

Gone is the greasy pizza and soggy pasta of old. In their place, authentic and tasty, if pricey, Italian classics. Browse, pick and mix what you like the look of – though you’d be wise not to overlook the mozzarella di bufala pizza and Amatriciana pasta. For sophistication and fine wine, head to Berlucchi.

Using Terminal 3

Terminal 3 is far larger, catering to some domestic and Schengen destinations, but mostly it’s about the long haul. If you’re travelling with British Airways, it’s T3 you’ll use.

While it also has a lesser Eataly and plenty of Italian eats, I’m usually swayed by the great Ramen restaurant Ajisen. There are of course more cafés than you can count, but Caffè Kimbo is my favourite, unless the chocolates at Venchi demand my attention. Sated, it’s time to shop – and you’re very well catered to.

From Armani to Zegna via Cartier and Louis Vuitton, every major luxury brand has an outlet, as do smaller brands. It’s an overwhelming display of capitalism, glitz and high fashion that’s a blast to window shop at the very least. Best of all, if you’re heading to a Non-Schengen country, it’s VAT free. Don’t forget to claim your VAT back from any Rome purchases at the dedicated refund counters – just keep your receipts.

One last thing to watch for as you navigate T3 (and T1 for that matter) are the often incredible art installations. A celebration of Italian history and culture, look up and you may find yourself eye to eye with an ancient statue from the nearby Ostia Antica archaeological park.